Nanatsu Ume (Seven Plums)
Updated: Aug 19
During the Edo period (1603–1868), three iconic sake brands dominated the market: Otokoyama, Kenbishi, and Nanatsu Ume. Their widespread popularity was immortalized by the renowned ukiyo-e artist Kitagawa Utamaro in his famous series Natorizake Rokkasen ("Selected Aristocrats of Sake Compared to Courtesans of Six Houses"). These prints paired celebrated courtesans of the day with the nation's premier sake brands, giving rise to the popular saying: "Sake means Kenbishi, Otokoyama, and Nanatsu Ume."
Originally, all three brands were brewed in Itami, Hyogo—once Japan's premier brewing hub. While Itami's influence eventually faded, its legacy was inherited by neighboring Nada, situated just southwest along Osaka Bay. Over time, the paths of these legendary brands diverged: Otokoyama relocated to Hokkaido, while Kenbishi moved to Nada in 1928. Today, both remain household names across Japan.
Nanatsu Ume—the most elusive of the trio—followed a much more circuitous path. The name, meaning "Seven Plums," was inspired by the belief that plum blossom fragrance peaks at the 7th hour of the traditional Japanese timekeeping system (roughly 4:00 AM). After Momenya, the original brewery in Itami, closed during the region's decline, the brand rights were acquired by a brewery in Saitama, near Tokyo.
Now, after more than 300 years, the Hamafukutsuru brewery in Nada has reclaimed the trademark—bringing Nanatsu Ume back to its historical home in Hyogo.
This modern iteration honors its storied past. It is crafted using the traditional kimoto method developed in the Edo period, producing a rich, robust flavor profile that pairs naturally with food. The label features artwork by the celebrated novelist Saneatsu Mushanokoji, an admirer who praised Nanatsu Ume in his poetry. Brewing utilizes premium Yamada Nishiki rice grown just across the mountains in Hyogo. This prized grain yields a smooth, expansive flavor that matures beautifully with age—a perfect complement to the kimoto style.
Today, visitors to Nada can experience this revived legend firsthand. I regularly include Hamafukutsuru on my guided tours, offering guests a behind-the-scenes look at where Nanatsu Ume and their other exceptional sake varieties are crafted. If you are lucky, you might even be greeted by their beloved veteran master brewer, who spent over 65 years crafting sake before transitioning into his current role as a brewery ambassador.
To discover this and many other treasures of sake history, get in touch and book a tour today!
Comments